The Rube Goldberg

This is an excellent, techy rock climb up the beautiful brown face right of Mustang Cracks. A rewarding route that will punish those that have failed to dial-in their nutcraft prior to launch.

P1 (5.6 or 5.10a, 100'): An approach pitch; climb either the first pitch of Mustang Cracks and move right to a bolted anchor or more directly climb the first pitch of Huckleberries to the same bolted anchor (see those route descriptions).

P2 (5.11a, 60'): Climb a thin flake then move left and up to an anchor on a comfortable ledge just right of Mustang Cracks.

P3 (5.12a PG13, 110'):  This pitch wanders a bit back and forth - take your time and suss out the line and the gear. Climb up to a bolt, move left then back right, performing some tricky moves up flakes to a stance below a finger crack and overlap. Nut placements and perhaps a tiny cam provide some relief for the crux moves getting into and up the initial bit of this finger crack. Easier climbing leads to another anchor on a good ledge.

P4 (5.11c, 90'): This is the final pitch of Huckleberries but it should be done with this route as it is awesome and yields the best combination of classic pitches on this stretch of the wall. Move up and right from the belay, tip-toeing up some hollow blocks to gain a blunt right-facing arete. Delicate moves up this, protected by three bolts, lead to an anchor at the top of the wall.

Rap the route with a 70m rope.

Start with the scrambly first pitch of Mustang Cracks or just right on Huckleberries.

Stoppers & Lil’ Cammers. Lots. Something like this:Pitch 2: Blue Alien, Black Alien, #7 BD, #5 BD, #6 BD, #10 BD, #9 BD, #8 BD, #8 BD, #7 BD, #7 BD, AnchorPitch 3: #7 Astro, #5 BD, Grey Alien w/ Sling, Bolt, #6 BD, #6 BD, #5 Micro, #6 Micro, #5 BD, #4 BD, #9 BD, #8 BD, #8 BD, 0.5 Camalot, Anchor.Pitch 4: Bolt, Yellow Alien, Blue Alien, Green Alien, 3-4 Wires, 3x Bolts, Red Alien, Anchor