- Edit (TBD)
Description
Burros Gone Wild is a good ol' pitch of blue-collar struggle high on the Mustang Wall. It is more or less a variation to the finish of either The Dragon or Pegasus - climbing a flaring chimney created by a massive flake sandwiched between the upper parts of those routes. Kinda reminiscent of the Epinephrine chimneys but much harder. It's quite fun if you're into this sort of thing and the rock is clean and well-varnished.P1-3: Climb either the first 3.5 pitches of The Dragon or the first 3 pitches of Pegasus and belay on the long belay ledge out right of the teetering Jenga Flake.P4: Climb leftwards off the ledge, across the Jenga Flake, and up as for The Dragon, but at the base of the Green Corner, move back right across varnished edges to access the bottom of the massive flake. It would be possible to set up an uncomfortable hanging belay here which will really help with rope drag up higher. If you link through, as was done on the FA, it is important to back clean or heavily runner as much as possible up to this point or pay the price. Another solid option might be to tie in to both ends of the rope, leading on one then dropping it once at the flake. Launch up into the flare behind the flake - easy at first, and harder up high fighting through a steep OW section. Ramble on to the final anchor of Pegasus.
Location
Mustang Wall. Begin on The Dragon or Pegasus. Climb inside the giant flake between those routes high on the wall.
Protection
1x small to #4 Camalot. Lots of runners or a few extra small/medium pieces to set up an intermediate belay.