Middle Traverse

From a small hold in the seam between the positive sloping face and the overhanging face, move up and left to a large horizontal. Follow this horizontal all of the way to the down climb crack left.

Variation 1. From the U-shaped hold left of the original start, move left to a sharp gaston before continuing up to the horizontal and finishing traverse.

Variation 2. Climb the original traverse, but avoid the upward and right sloping seam.

To the Trapps Bridge side of Doug's Roof, starting at a hold in an upward and right sloping seam on the face below the roof.

The center of Doug's Roof: 1. Gill's Double Clutch (V4), 2. Middle Traverse (V1), 2a. Middle Traverse Variation 1 (V1), 2b. Middle Traverse Variation 2 (V1)

Pads (lots of them) or one pad and someone to move it