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Peak Mountain 3

Catch the Wave

FA Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Very technical climbing on great rock. You'll find multiple cryptic sections of long moves off small holds and really bad feet interlaced with sections of fun steep hero jug pulling and heeling. All in all, this route has excellent movement and requires some brains to decipher. The rock quality only gets better as you climb up. A committing boulder problem right before the first anchor is likely to steal your glory, so gather your horses when you get the chance and take no prisoners!!!Surprisingly, this amazing route seen almost no traffic in the last 15 years. Somehow it feels like a hard slab when you are on it and you only notice how steep it really is when you lower down into the space away from the base ledge.BELAYERS: PLEASE ALWAYS MAKE A KNOT AT THE END OF THE ROPE BEFORE LOWERING THE CLIMBER!!!!! Use a >60mts rope.Bolts and hangers on first half were upgraded in August 2015 by Vincent Bates, Andy Bennett and Luis Cisneros. Pitons & bolts in second half were upgraded in September 2021 by Andy Bennett & Adrian Montano.

Location

Steep wall a few feet right of Arc of a Diver.

Protection

9 bolts to first anchors16 bolts for the full Catch the Wave. A couple runners up high are helpful. 80m rope does not reach the ground from the top anchor, it barely does from the last bolt (with belayer walking up to ledge where route starts) Clip into draws below first anchor so as to not be stuck out in space away from ledge.If lowering from the top, lower to first anchor to rethread & lower from there.