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Description
70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route
Tricky "three-dimensional" climbing colors this route throughout...there are some outrageous moves that I've never encountered anywhere. Three or four distinct cruxes with very good rests in between mean that, if you can hold on long enough to figure out the sequences, you might just get the onsight.
Find the line of brown camo-bolts just left of the iridescent green lichen highway. Climb immediately-steep terrain, reaching a shelf that is shared with the vintage climb Cheap Shot. Here you can place an optional #1-#2 Camalot to protect moves to the next bolt. Traverse right to a high clip and get ready to get creative with the corner system. Ingenuity will deposit you on the "King Sofa", where you can get it all back.
As you awake from the Sofa, be sure that you have an attentive belayer: difficult climbing follows, and too much slack in the line might pose a slight ankle-tweaking risk (rock quality necessitated this...) More hard climbing will eventually take you to a large roof at the top of the corner; impressive views can be had from your perch here. At this point you can opt to climb left into the Cheap Shot--High Five hand crack (10+), or move right into the final crux of the route. Be sure to extend the draw on the last bolt under the roof, or you'll be haulin' oxen on your way to the chains!
70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route
Location
Between "Cheap Shot" and "Cheap Thrills/Agent Orange" corner...about 20' left of "Booted from the Galley"
Protection
70M ROPE REQUIRED to lower from this route
14 quickdraws and one should-length draw; biner anchors
Routes in Neptune
- 13Trend Generally Upwards5.12bSport