Step by Step

One of the longest legal routes in the state, along with its partner to the right,  Hedonic Treadmill. Expect much moderate climbing, a few sustained pitches with well protected cruxes, some ledge wandering, and some wet streak jumping! Don’t forget to check when the park gates close. It’s best to give this a day to dry after rain     P1 (5.9-, 200’) Begin in a shallow corner slab leading to bolt one, then diagonal up and left following bolts to a nice corner system that takes cams. Continue to a large ledge and gear belay. P2 (5.7, 200’): Both right and left from your gear belay will offer small cams (sling long) with easy run outs, then follow bolts for the rest of the long pitch past fun and easy grooving with great features. Note: You can rap 200’ down and climber’s right from here to access Hedonic Treadmill’s P2 anchor. P3 (5.3, 200’) Move up and right to a bolt, then traverse far right and clip a bolt on the somewhat hidden Rap anchors (remember where this anchor is because you’ll need it later for rapping). Keep trending right on 3rd class terrain dodging water streaks and getting some gear.  Belay at a tree on the far right tree island, just under the obvious P4.  P4 (5.10b, 80’): Locate a holly tree growing out of a flake 10’ off the ground on the headwall. The bolt line right of this holly is the pitch. Start on incredible holds to a .75 cam, then follow bolts over techy vertical face climbing with just enough features. At the large ledge, Move 25’ left to anchors ledge under the swirling water groove.  Slings, .75 cam and a small TCU needed for this pitch. P5 (5.10c, 90’): The swirling groove! This pitch is sustained.  Get a 3” cam above anchors, then follow a few bolts past techy cruxes using the wild groove at first. Move right to a shallower groove and crux at the bolt. After crux, small cams protect patina edges to a line of bolts. Belay at anchors, or keep going past wetness to ledge.  7 bolts, #3 cam, smallest cams. P6-P7 (5.7, 100’): There is an inevitable nasty wet streak you’ll have to pass under the roof, but it’s easy and well protected with cams. Swim through wet streak moving left around roof, then either belay at a large pine up and slight right on the ledge or continue up the final summit pitch. The summit pitch starts just left of a pine tree, aiming for a glorious jug 20’ up. Gear protects the first 50’, then 2 bolts on easy, but wild features. Anchors. Descent: Option 1 is to top out and walk 3 miles down the tourist trail. Don’t leave anything at the base if you do this and know that the trail terminus is not where you parked your car. Rap option: Two 60M is best but tie knots at rope ends! A single 70M is possible with some trickery. From top anchor, rap 200’ to P4 top anchor. From P4 anchor, rap to giant wet ledge and search for the P3 top anchor, located just right of the top moss pads but well hidden. From this anchor, rap to tree ledge where you will find an anchor on its far climber’s left side. Watch ends of rope! Make one more 200’ rap. 

1000’ right of Table Town.  Approach via Pumpkintown Trail to Table Town, then right.  The Pumpkintown Trail, and access to this area, would not have happened without the Carolina Climbers Coalition.  Please become a member or volunteer! 

SR. No stoppers or Tri cams. Single rack to #3.