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Peak Mountain 3

Hedonic Treadmill

FA Tom Caldwell and Mike Reardon, FFA Dylan Van Lebo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A classic journey up Table Rock. A full day adventure with many varying pitches. Make sure you go to the top! This route also dries quickly.P1. Locate the low slab with several visible bolts. Follow the bolts past thin slab moves. As the angle eases, get a .75 sized cam in a horizontal. Continue up past more bolts to an anchor. 5.9, 105'P2. Continue up this same slab past a some more bolts to a steepening wall where the last two bolts are before the anchor. 5.8, 105'P3. To get to the base of P3, climb onto the tree ledge just a few feet right of the anchor for P2. Hike directly right to reach another long slab. The slab has a lower left facing flake and then a right facing flake higher up. Get some bigger gear (#3) down low, then keep following the line of bolts to the anchor at the top located on a big boulder in front of the head wall. 5.8, 200'P4. The crux pitch! Either climb up the boulder above the anchors or circle around to the left and back to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt at the base of dihedral. Start into the sustained and tricky climbing. You can get a #2 after the first bolt or skip it and go for the next bolt. Keep following the groove up and left past more bolts until you reach the 4th bolt, be sure to sling this long (2'+) so that it runs smooth. Pull out onto the steep face and clip the last bolt before the difficult bolder problem. Try to free the blankish section or bat hook to the next bolt. Once you get to the stance, the rest is more free climbing. After the next bolt, move left on the ledge, get a few finger sized pieces and/or nuts. Make tough moves past two more bolts. After the second bolt start trending hard right. Be sure to have a .4, .75, and a #1 for your partner as they traverse the often wet, but easy section. Locate the anchors on the big horiztonal ledge. 5.12, 100'P5. Move right or climb straight up to the big upwards facing flake. Get some gear here, then move to a huge jug and the first bolt. Get to the second bolt, then wander right (easier) or go straight up the slopers past more bolts and some chickenheads. It is recommended to climb past the next belay anchor and move left to a bolt on the lip of a bulge. Pull the funky bulge, get another bolt, and then some gear in a crack. Keep going up the slab apron just below the next bulge is a trad belay on a #1, 2, and 3, but other sizes will fit. 5.10, 150'.P6. It is nice to have the trad belay here to prevent the leader from hitting the slab apron at the first bolt on the next pitch. Negotiate the tricky bulge, clip one more bolt, then very easy climbing straight up ledges leads to the last belay. 5.9, 70'Optional P3. When you are traversing the tree ledge to get to the normal P3, there is another pitch that starts in the black streak on the wall above in the middle of the traverse. All bolts and one pink tricam on this pitch. Fun groove and face climbing. You could use this to access the headwall if the streak to get to the base of the headwall is dry. 5.8', 200'If you do the optional pitch and rappel back down, it would be about 920' of climbing.

Location

This one is challenging to get to. One of the more remote parts of TRSP. Hike up Pumpkintown, turn right at the pink flagging that leads to Table Town. Hike to Table Town, scramble up the right side of the climb New Perspectives, then keep moving right along the ledge. Hopefully you will see the path we have carved out. Keep moving right below the cliff line past a gully. You will eventually reach the mostly dry, low slab wall. The climbing starts here at the bolted line.

Protection

Thin fingers to #3, medium small nuts, tricams, and plenty of quick draws. A single 60m can get you down from everything, but you have to rappel off a single bolt on P3 and P5. Double ropes are recommended.