Smedley's Pancakes

Before I cleaned this and climbed it, I thought it would be an average 5.9 route. Turned out much trickier, difficult and fun than I expected.Climb crunchy and licheny rock in the the dihedral right of No Sketching to shared anchors with that route. Climb up the dihedral using offset cracks and holds on the dihedral's right side. A strenuous pull between bolts one and two rewards you with easier climbing in the middle section. Stem your way up and climb the faint arête on the right. Move left to the finishing bulge and a perfectly-placed pocket to pull the bulge to the anchor.

The dihedral a few paces right of No Sketching.

Six bolts to the anchor of No Sketching. Recommend stick-clipping first bolt.