Tasty Freeze

The first route ever established at Las Conchas (and rated 10b at the time.)Start up by stemming between the wall and the boulder pile, or by climbing the loose-ish flakes on the face, clipping a bolt along the way. Or just scramble up the boulder pile (you might miss the first bolt if you do that, though). Clip the second bolt and stretch for a bomber jug. Pull through to a solid stance to place some hand-sized pro, then angle up to the right, liebacking and protecting the semi-detached flake. Find the third bolt in the face to the left, and step left across the face to another semi-detached flake. Top out by following this, or apparently one can continue straight up through scoops (a little run-out, maybe safer to try that on toprope). Both options reach a big ledge with a bolted anchor at eye level on the face behind (allowing for a decent toprope setup).Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84), Beverly (2006:58), and Jackson (2006:211). Jett and Samet gave this route an "R-" annotation, and the other two guides call it "R", although I'm not sure why; maybe if you choose the right finish through the scoops?

Begin in a little alley just left of the boulder pile, just to the right of a black streak on the wall.

Three bolts (two fairly low on the route). Trad rack with mostly larger gear (save #3 and #4 Camalots for the upper left exit crack). (although I have heard of someone leading this on only the bolts!! scary-bold, or foolish?) Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and a bolt with a chain). Either rappel or walk off (actually a class 3 scramble-off). Once you know where the anchors are you could set this as a toprope if you walk up the backside.