Guillotine

This interesting route passes under a guillotine-like flake near the top of p1, hence the name.

p1: climbs a shallow depression in the face with some foliage, then up and right through a shallow dihedral with a bush at its base; continue up cracks and then under a flake into the guillotine cave. A 60 m rope will allow you to continue up and left above the flake to a good belay ledge. With a 50 m rope, set a belay at the flake, then scramble up to the ledge to set a belay for p2.

p2: Climb up toward a large red flake and pass between it and a "lollipop" shaped tree on steep protectable rock; continue up cracks to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Chile Verde) or anchor off trees to the right. This pitch is better than p1.

The start is about 3 m right of the large juniper tree at the base of Refritos. The route is between Refritos (long black streak) and Techo al Derecho.

For the descent, climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 6-8 double length runners; 60 m rope recommended.