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Peak Mountain 3

China Plates

FA Rick Shull, Jim Hammerle and Rachel Dobrotin, November 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 140' 5.5: Start up a nice hand crack approx 50 ft to climber's right of the start for Wilson Regular Route (as drawn in JT West), a few steps left of a big tree.  Slant right as that crack system becomes wide but with ample incuts up the right face.  Continue up long vertical crack to the first smaller alcove of two. Belaying higher on the bigger alcove ledge would make for a much sharper P2 turn to the patina arete.

P2 100' 5.6: Abandon main crack to head up and left across featured terrain laced with numerous cracks to get up to a long horizontal ledge.  Go all the way left to the inviting patina plates.  Exciting exposure to swing out onto the slightly overhanging patinas, with solid jugs galore, to go up their right side and onto a spacious ledge.

P3 140' 5.7: Scamper up bulge blocks to another patina face, to go up its right subtle arete, for a brief bit of 5.7.  Near the top of that, veer left to follow an easy gap shaped like a rampy chute to the summit.

Rap via Gossamer Wings bolted anchors with 70 m rope.  Or descend by going to climber's right, to first scramble over the high summit to immediate right and toward its back, downclimb its right farside, then traverse across slopey easy terrain to the topouts of Swift, Bird, and Dappled, and then proceed to walk off as for those.

Location

In between Wilson Reg Route (to cross that at beginning of P3) and Altitude Sickness.

Protection

Double rack to 2" plus one 3" cam, gear anchors.