- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start at a fixed rurp at the far right side of the wall, about 50 feet right of Headbanger's Ball.
Pitch 1: Face climb up and left past a bolt (5.9+), then follow a short, vertical crack to an easier slab past 2 bolts, then jam the obvious crack that splits a roof (5.11b/c), belay about 20 feet higher at a ledge. The 5.11 roof crack can be avoided by a 5.7 variation that tackles the overhang about 15 feet to the right.
Pitch 2: Climb a classic, splitter finger and thin hands crack (5.6) for about 50 feet up to a small ledge.
Pitch 3: Up a delicate friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10a/b), then zigzag right, then back left on ramps, then climb staight up a very thin and steeper slab (11b/c) past 3 bolts, finishing the pitch with an easy, juggy roof. Belay 20 feet higher.
Pitch 4: Some class 4 takes you to the top of the formation.
Protection
To 2.5 inches; extra CDs from .4 to 1 inch.