- Edit (TBD)
Description
this route climbs a major weakness on the far left side of angel food wall. When we first climbed this a couple years ago we found restaurant signs on one of the ledges and bootied a stuck cam in the chimney. It must have a long history and different name so I would love to update if anyone knows. Start under the large house sized chockstone left of sandy hole. p0/1: squeeze through a short tunnel behind the chockstone to a ledge. Tag packs up then ramble up the chockstone to a large ledge system with many scrub oak bushes. P2: 150’ 5.4 this is Kind of bushy and sandy but will clean up. Head up and right through the path of least resistance aiming for the base of a large obvious chimney. Belay here on a good ledge. Some tree wrestling required.P3: 100’ 5.6 head up the crack on the face up sometimes friable plates but mostly good varnish to a good ledge. There is a rope eating crack down low that will give you heinous rope drag if you are not careful. Alternatively, climb the 5.9 chimney on the left, this chimney is wicked slippery, maybe the slickest I’ve ever climbed (maybe second to the kor ingalls polished calcite…). This option has some loose rock but goes to the same ledge.P4: 150’ 5.5 head up and left into the large gully. Ramble up the path of least resistance to the “restaurant sign ledge”, most of the signs have been washed away in a storm it seems. There is a small Charlie Brown style pine tree to mark this ledge.P5: 150’ 5.6 walk left to the elevator shaft on “domestic bliss”, climb that routes last pitch for an absolutely stellar pitch of splitter varnish crack climbing. The first time up we climbed the crack system straight up and found it moderate but very friable and chossy with a couple death flakes, would not recommend. Descent: head left on the top out ledge. Follow this ledge all the way left to link into the standard descent for angel food wall.
Location
Standard angel food wall approach, but head left of sandy hole toward the obvious massive chockstone.
Protection
Single rack to 4, doubles off fingers to hands.
Routes in Angel Food Wall
- 2Glass Elevator5.6Trad