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Peak Mountain 3

Healy's Haunted House

FA Bob Healy, Joe Herbst 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

It begins on a bushy ledge at the base of a large chimney just right and uphill from Group Therapy.

(P1) Climb the chimney until reaching a ledge at about 135'.There will probably be rap slings at this point(5.7+). Belay here and wonder why there are rap slings.

(P2) The next lead is more than just interesting. I was able to place two marginal pieces of pro here to protect myself stemming the chimney to the jam above; one pulled; I doubt the other would have held a fall. A fall here would result in a bounce off the ledge then a plunge into the dark pit below 30'(5.9). On the ledge above the jam, there will again be rap slings. By this time, some parties will be late; some will be freaked out; and some will have lost all faith in the guide .

(P3 through P5) continue up the chimney/crack system to the top max 5.7.

Descent: go southwest to the gully and down. There will be one rap. The problems with this route are known to the climbing rangers at RR. The route description in the guide could be a misprint as per rating, pro difficulty and length; but I doubt it. The second pitch is deadly without a bolt.

Protection

Standard rack pg13