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Peak Mountain 3

The Megalodon

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Description

The Megalodon climbs the stunning NW arete of the Sharksfin.

Begin on the

North Face

route, following broken cracks for about 80 feet to the top of a pedestal where you will find an old, shallow-driven Northcutt/Kor piton. Clip the pin with a double-length runner (excellent microcam placements nearby), and begin a spectacular hand-traverse out right to the first bolt on the arete.

Fire up the arete/left face, clipping 5 bolts along the way. After the crux moves near the 5th bolt, moderate but runout climbing takes you past two more bolts

en route

to a new two-bolt anchor near the summit of the Sharksfin.

A tag-line or Beal Escaper is recommended to descend the long pitch in one rappel. It is also possible to climb 20 feet to the true summit, and follow the rappels to the West using a single 60m rope.

Protection

A single rack #0.2-#1, 7 bolts, and a double-length runner is recommended for fixed pin before traverse.