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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown/P6 of Golden Staircase

FA unknown
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Description

Locate the base of the route between

Hammerhead

and

Shark Sandwich

.

Make thin, technical moves to gain the first bolt. Continue to make technical and thin moves to gain the second bolt. Bolts 3 and 4 require thin finger crack and small feet to gain a ledge. Surmount the ledge, and climb easier ground on the left side or even in the left-facing corner for several more bolts to chains. If continuing on to pitch 7 of

Golden Staircase

, pass the chains, taking care to run your rope around not through the crack below, and look for new anchors on the opposite side of the fin. From there, rap to the gully at the base of P7 of

Golden Staircase

.

Location

After rapping north off

Yellow Butterfly

, you arrive at a small patch of grass, maybe 15 feet by 8 feet. The start of P6 of Golden Staircase begins about center of the long side of the grass, against the wall, which is a slab at this point.

Protection

Bolts - probably 10 plus for the anchors.