Cary Granite

This is the obvious crack system just left of

Good Evans

. We did this in 1990, wrote it up in the old, loose-leaf guidebook at the Bucksnort, but the guidebook was since stolen.

P1. Climb the first pitch of

Good Evans

(5.10d).

P2. From the belay stance, continue straight up the Rappel Route about 80 feet past two sections of 5.10/5.10+ lieback followed by a 5.11- undercling. Belay just left of the obvious splitter crack that begins here and extends all the way to the top of the wall.

P3. Move right on 5.11b/c face moves to the incipient crack and then move up (5.11b) past a couple of small roofs. The crack widens from fingers to hands and then to hands and fists. Belay at the stance in the crack.

P4. Continue up the crack (5.9 - 5.10) past the large roof on your right to a stance in the crack. Nearly every placement on this pitch is a number 3 to 4 Camalot size.

P5. Follow the crack for a short easy pitch to the top.

Doubles to 4", (triple on the 2") plus a 4.5" cam.