Harry Cary

This is a tips to fingers variation into the roof pitch of

Cary Granite

. Instead of traversing in from atop the 2nd pitch of

Cary Granite

, traverse in from the 2nd pitch of

Good Evans

.

P1: Climb the first pitch of

Good Evans

, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).

P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the

Good Evans

crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the

Cary Granite

roof and beyond (5.11).

P3: Climb to the top (5.10).

Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of

Cary Granite

, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is nowhere near as hard as the traverse in from the original route (probably 5.9).

Use the same as for

Cary Granite

, but add some RPs and finger-sized pieces for the variation.