The Undertone

The Undertone is the gem of the Slippery Buttress routes. It climbs an exposed position along the right edge of the buttress connecting interesting features up a beautiful stretch of rock. There is plenty of 5.9 and 5.10a slabbing and thin face climbing, but the actual crux is the upper corner.

P1 (120', 5.10b): Climb up the right arete of the buttress following bolts and occasional gear placements to a roof. Pull through this and continue straight up via a well-protected seam, or step out right and follow the arete (easy but unprotected). Either path ends at a bolted anchor.

P2 (170', 5.10d): Move right off the belay and follow an interesting, leaning corner to a small, arching roof. Step left around the arete below this roof, then climb up and back right (now above the roof) and up into the upper corner. Climb up this with some difficulty to an anchor.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.