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Peak Mountain 3

Tongue and Groove

FA Unknown.
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Description

A great pitch of low-angle face and slab climbing followed by an enjoyable and easier corner pitch. Begin dead center on the wall.

P1 (5.10c, 150'): Boulder up to the first bolt (crux - but the slab and landing are gentle if you blow it), then continue up the wall via easier but excellent climbing. Wander out left, then back right, and make sure to have a handful of small cams and wires at the ready for protecting this pitch.

P2: (5.10b, 140'): Continue up the corner above. Ignore the anchor directly overhead and instead move out right through a scrub oak and belay at a bolted anchor set up for rappel.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

Protection

A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.


Routes in Slippery Buttress