The Wind in the Willows

[ Note Climbing Magazine # 378, Summer 2021, has a well-written 2 page article with photos of this climb. R Hall ME-Admin.] This route follows the long finger and hand crack left of the left side of the Armadillo, which eventually becomes the fist crack above the Armadillo flake. Though mentioned in the Armadillo comments as a variation, it really deserves to be described as a separate route.1. Climb the wide crack in the corner on the left side of the Armadillo flake to a ledge. (5.8)2. Traverse left into the obvious crack system (fingers at first, gradually getting wider). Follow the crack to an airy stance at the top of the Armadillo flake. (5.9) At this point you have joined the normal Armadillo route.3. Climb the Armadillo fist crack to a comfortable stance. (5.7)4. Follow corners and cracks on the left, moving up right to gain the ridge crest. (5.7)4th and easy 5th for about 400' to a big ledge where it's comfortable to unrope.

Approach as for the left side of the Armadillo; options include traversing out from the right on the vegetated ledge, a spooky-looking but easy chimney almost directly below the route, or a nice 5.7-5.8 corner just left of the chimney. Top out and hike down as for the Armadillo.

Standard rack to #5 [#6 may be better, see Comments] or so, maybe extra thin-hand to hand sized pieces. Some old fixed pins, including the infamous bong, once you join the Armadillo.