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Peak Mountain 3

Te Dum

FA Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, 1949. FFA: Art Gran, 1958
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An interesting route with several variations. It is often described in 2 pitches, but it's much simpler to climb to the clifftop in one pitch.

Start just right of Inverted Layback at a 6"-wide crack on the left wall of a big dihedral. This is about 55' left of Disneyland.

P1: Climb the face by the crack for 25' (V1). When the crack flares, traverse up and right to an arete. Move right and up (crux) to small stance and a tree (optional belay) in a clean dihedral. From here, climb up and right, turning an easy roof on the right, and continue to the top. 5.7, 120'.

V1: The climb can also be started on the right wall of the initial corner, bypassing the wide crack.

Descend by an easy stroll, climber's right, back to the base.

Protection

Standard Rack, with optional larger (3-4") pieces.