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MapDescription
Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.
Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Walk off to the right.
Protection
The crux is protected by either a large cam (#6) or a small RP / blue Alien.
Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
- 20Inverted Layback5.9Trad