We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Illusions

FA KC Baum, Andrea Heath, and Chris Monz, 3/8/89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:

Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.

Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall. Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side. Protect with a finger sized cam. Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other. Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect. Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2:

Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge. Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof. Then move left around the roof to the top.

Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.

The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right). A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.

Location

This is located on the opposite side of the gully from

Black Beauty

. The route ascends a great looking, steep dihedral. It is also the fist dihedral right of the chimney in the back of the gully.

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch. I believe I placed two each from #5 down to #2 Metolius (ring locks down to tips).

A number 3 Metolius (or #0.5 Camalot) is essential crux protection.

Cams up through wide hands for the upper pitch.