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Peak Mountain 3

Koko B. Ware

FA Mike Robinson, Mary Anderson, and Pete Lucero 5/17/21
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Start in the flared slot just left of "

Little Hulkster

". Climb to the anchors on various moves with great protection (5.7).

P2. This is my favorite, Climb the corner with various stemming, crack moves, and many gear placement options. Pull the roof, move climbers right on a shelf, and climb stacked blocks to the rap anchor tree for Lessons in Discipline (5.8). Belay here.

P3. Use C0/C1 technique for 15 feet OR climb the fist crack to the left and hand traverse just below the OW then move into the OW. Taller people will have no problem freeing this at 5.8.  Bring knifeblades or micronuts if you plan on doing the AID variation. Climb the OW to the top (short/cheatable 5.8). An old #4.5 BD cam is perfect.

Location

This route is climber''s left of

Made in The Shade

and

Lessons in Discipline

. Once reaching the top, climbers can hike out left down the gully or take a short rap to the tree anchor and along single rope rappel. 1 70m "SHOULD" make it, and 80m 100% will make it.

Protection

A double rack from micronuts to #5 cams.  This route is 5.8 climbing with some more difficult gear placement and leader rope management.