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Peak Mountain 3

Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint

FA Griffith/Guerin, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ever see the Wild Country ad in late '80s Rock and Ice with Charlie Fowler climbing a cool looking face somewhere in the Flatirons? This is that route, and I had always wanted to do it since I first saw the pic...I feel that this is one of the best Flatirons routes of its grade.

Short but sweet! Climb up to the bolt (added after 1st ascent) and move up and left to these jigsaw flakes and place a wire or two. Stand up and place another wire in a sort of dubious slot out left. Make crux moves diagonally out right to another angling crack, meander your way up and right to the ledge and belay.

Rap off the slings threaded through the jug handle or climb the "2nd pitch" of dirty, lichenous rock.

Protection

Small/medium wires, small cams, 1 bolt.