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This route is fun, is on great rock, and is the easiest way to summit Fiddlehead from the north (to my knowledge). I haven't seen it documented anywhere else, so I thought I'd include it here.
Start as per
Surfing in Samsara
(5.7; Richard Rossiter, solo, 1989) atop a large boulder resting against the northwest face of Fiddlehead. After the short, steep 5.0 section, walk the slanted ledge rightward past a bolt anchor to a large flake. Climb the flake (exposed) to reach solid jugs over the lip of a small roof. Crank the roof, and follow more jugs up and left to the summit.
Descend with one or two rappels from bolted anchors.
Protection
Several cams up to #3 Camalot and some slings should suffice.
Routes in Fiddlehead
- 3Northwest Face5.2Trad