Gnatty Pale

Start between Hodad and Double Ought, near a pointed horn. Aim for the pale streak over roof above. Climb to and sling horn. Climb to and clip a bolt (placed by another party after the FA) that protects a balancy 5.9ish bit to better holds, but no gear. Easy moves lead to a nice stance. Either step right and clip the Hodad anchor (reeeeally long) or climb up to a couple micronuts that protect another balancy move to the roof. Under the roof, sling some good gear out right with a 4 footer. Step left to negotiate the roof and enjoy well-spaced but good gear and holds to top. Generally follow the clean streak, aiming for an obvious crack in final overlap, and sling boulder to belay.

Start between Hodad and Double Ought in the Gully to the Hanging Garden. Either rap from the fixed cord around the boulder atop the route -- a 60 barely reaches -- or walk left and rap into the Garden then scramble down the gully or walk right and descend Whipping Post with Two ropes.

Nuts, micronuts, small cams (0.3 - 1.5 inches), tri-cams, long slings, a couple 4 ft slings, 3 Camalot.