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Peak Mountain 3

Ota Benga

FA Andrew McClure
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ota Benga is short, but with great rock, slightly overhung, and has just enough pro.

Start off the ground, of course! A technical start lets up just to place a couple tiny cams. Move into where you can actually use the crack, and get a couple good cams. Fire the crux, moving passed where the crack pinches down to nothing, to a 1 hand only jug. Get one more good cam in, and make the easier but not trivial moves to the top.

I'm not a crack climber, so the grade is just a guess, but it is somewhere in the 5.12 range.

Location

It is on the west side of the "main draw" in the Quarry, ~150m north of the other routes.

Protection

I used (in order): purple C3, green C3, #0.75, #0.4, #0.75, or just take stoppers and cams to #1. It has a 2 bolt anchor.