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Peak Mountain 3

Ministry of Fear

FA Alec Sharp, Matt Lavender, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another fine Alec Sharp horror-show! Ministry of Fear climbs the thin offset seam on the steep, neon green wall just right of "

Purple Haze

" and "

Born under Punches

". Climb up the easy, chossy slab up to a chossy roof. Make a big move to a good hold on the lip of the roof, then a fun hand traverse right to the base of the seam. Tenuous lay-backing up the thin offsets leads to an insecure crux move, then a big jug. Mantel up onto the ledge, then scramble left to join "

Purple Haze

".

There is very little potential for protection, it should be considered a true free solo. The only possibilities I saw:

-Good cams way out left, below the roof. They might protect the big move to the lip, but would do you no good once the seam is reached.

-A couple of small RPs behind a semi-attatched flake in the crack. They'd theoretically protect the crux, but they're very marginal, and would still leaves some hard, tenuous climbing unprotected below.

-I didn't see where they'd go, but apparently Mr. Sharp led this with pre-placed duct-taped hooks?!

-Possibly a thin blade or RURP in the base of the seam?

Protection

Hope, Faith, and Love...

or, for mortals, set up a Toprope! Climb "

Purple Haze

" or "

Friends in High Places

", lower off the new 2-bolt anchor atop these routes (thanks!). Swing right, and locate a fixed pin on a small ledge above the route. A small cam backs the pin up.