- Edit (TBD)
Description
Another fine Alec Sharp horror-show! Ministry of Fear climbs the thin offset seam on the steep, neon green wall just right of "
Purple Haze
" and "
Born under Punches
". Climb up the easy, chossy slab up to a chossy roof. Make a big move to a good hold on the lip of the roof, then a fun hand traverse right to the base of the seam. Tenuous lay-backing up the thin offsets leads to an insecure crux move, then a big jug. Mantel up onto the ledge, then scramble left to join "
Purple Haze
".
There is very little potential for protection, it should be considered a true free solo. The only possibilities I saw:
-Good cams way out left, below the roof. They might protect the big move to the lip, but would do you no good once the seam is reached.
-A couple of small RPs behind a semi-attatched flake in the crack. They'd theoretically protect the crux, but they're very marginal, and would still leaves some hard, tenuous climbing unprotected below.
-I didn't see where they'd go, but apparently Mr. Sharp led this with pre-placed duct-taped hooks?!
-Possibly a thin blade or RURP in the base of the seam?
Protection
Hope, Faith, and Love...
or, for mortals, set up a Toprope! Climb "
Purple Haze
" or "
Friends in High Places
", lower off the new 2-bolt anchor atop these routes (thanks!). Swing right, and locate a fixed pin on a small ledge above the route. A small cam backs the pin up.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 27Ministry of Fear5.11dTr · Trad