- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route ascends an obvious dihedral about 20 feet to the right (and around a corner) of
Chockstone
. Rossiter gives the first pitch a 5.7, and IMO I think it deserves a 5.8. It's awkward and a little bit more strenuous than a 5.7 would be.
P1 (7). Climb the dihedral (the lower one, the crack above it is
Joke Crack
11c). I actually used
Joke Crack
to stem my foot out for the first half, either way, it's awkward but yet fun. Gain the ledge and traverse over a couple of feet to set up the belay.
P2 (9). The crux is right away. If you can find a way to get a stopper or an RP in, continue to the right up a corner to a hand crack. Follow this hand jam crack all the way up to the tree.
Protection
Bring cams from #0.5 to 3 (Camalots). Doubles in #1 and 2 would be very helpful. The top of the first pitch has a good spot between two rocks (on the right side of the ledge) for a couple large stoppers and some tricams for a perfect anchor.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 24Purple Haze5.9Trad