- Edit (TBD)
Description
Blade ascends the blatant, overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of
Dragon Slayer
and is a link between the second pitch of
Ancient Light
and the final corner of
Dragon Slayer
. Good jams on the left with the opportunity for daring stems all the way up. The crux is the last 20 feet before joining
Dragon Slayer
. Good rock and good pro all the way.
Blade makes an interesting circuit. Begin with the first pitch of Ancient Light and belay at the rings above the big ledge. Climb the second pitch to the right side of Penis Envy Pillar, but don't climb the pillar. One can belay here, just right of the PE Pillar, which reduces rope drag and keeps the belayer in touch with the leader (though I have not done this). Pull through a small roof and ascend the obvious right-facing, right arching dihedral. Join
Dragon Slayer
and lower off from the 2-ring anchor at the top (the anchor is 3 feet above a final roof). Arrive at the belay tree for
Dragon Slayer
. Rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around the tree (down the Crack Land Dihedral -
Mystery Ship
,
Ship of Fools
and
Mystery Tour
) to the trail maybe 100 feet west from the start to
Ancient Light
.
Location
Blade begins with the first 40 feet of the second pitch of
Ancient Light
and becomes an independent line at the right side of Penis Envy Pillar. The pitch is 90 feet long and finishes at the ring anchors atop
Dragon Slayer
.
Protection
Ancient Light
(P2) and the last bit of
Dragon Slayer
each require a couple of draws. Recommendation: clip only the second bolt on
Ancient Light
P2, then back-clean the draw when it is easy to pull right around the arete. The subsequent dihedral (Blade) is strictly gear from 0.25 inch to 3 inches. Plan on maybe 5 to 8 placements. Ring anchors at the top. Lower off to the belay tree for
Dragon Slayer
, which is the tree at the top of the Crack Land Dihedral,
Ship of Fools
and
Ghost Ship
.
Routes in Crack Land
- 12Blade5.10Trad