Ancient Light

This route begins on the far left side of the summit tier of Avalon. From the Wall of the Dead, follow a trail right and up to Avalon's summit tier. Traverse left heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock.The route starts at a narrow spot on the trail, right next to a curvy 10-foot-high dead tree.

P1. Climb up a somewhat grungy face (moss, lichen), then make an exciting traverse left at a little roof onto an arete (crux). Continue up the arete, past a 2-bolt anchor on a pedestal, to a 2-bolt anchor on a big grassy ledge. (10a, 9 bolts, 80').

The climbing on the upper half of the pitch is quite good.

P2. Work up and right past 2 bolts and pull right around the Penis Envy Pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to a roof. Lieback through the roof, then climb straight up to a 2-bolt ring anchor on a nice ledge (10c, 5 bolts & gear to 3", 80').

P1: 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at 70'.

If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.

P2: 5 bolts and gear up to 3".