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Description
The Derreckman is a tough two pitch route up the far right corner before the South face, directly left of the Ruffian arete. There are multiple options to start, but if you want to link into one pitch, it's best to start with P1 of
Thread the Needle
. Otherwise cruise up the Original Roughneck flake start, the direct start to the right, or the Boardwalk. Continue up the steepening corner to a pod (optional belay with 0.75-1). Continue up challenging finger crack to an easier stretch then up to the roofs. Stretch up from the tooth, and clip the first bolt, then lieback up overlaps to crux moves at the lip and another bolt. Continue up to a large upper roof. Place a #3 if you brought it or run it put on easier terrain up the left face of the roof past a final bolt to 2 bolt anchor on the prow.
Rap off the other side down to P1 of
Thread the Needle
or to the ground with 2 ropes. This will improve with traffic.
Location
Start one of many ways from the left side of the South face. Hike up from the Sawmill to the south face buttress. Start on the Boardwalk, Direct, Original RN, or
Thread the Needle
.
Protection
A single set to #3 with extra #0.25-#1. Bring long slings for start and finish if climbing this as a single pitch.
Routes in Main Wall
- 11The Derrickman5.11dTrad