Guillotine

Guillotine is one of the better routes at the crag! Start atop the apex of the cliff’s base on a flat rock (The “Chopping Block”).

P1. Climb the bolted, slabby face on cool smears and edges past a small overlap and into a triangular, stemming corner. At this point, the route does a 180 and becomes a perfect hand/fist crack through the roof and the headwall above. Belay at a shared anchor on the ledge. There’s a bolt at the lip to keep the rope out of the crack (and so we don’t tempt fate by putting gear into the flake). The flake flexes on the bottom but would not come off with even the largest of crowbars. I use it to chimney on. Gear: cannot recall # of bolts -- maybe 10?. For the crack, it is nice to have one # 1, two #2s, and two #3s.

P2. Continue up the moderate corner on gear to an anchor at the beginning of the 3rd Class finish, ~ 5.7.

Start atop the large pile of slabby boulders just uphill from the main area. This flat ledge is affectionately named the Chopping Block.

See the description.