MargaUgra, (5.12/A0)

MargaUgra is the pitch following

MS

("F" in the main photo for the alcove). I would not ordinarily post pitches independently, but this headwall pitch is unrelated to

MS

in every way. It is fully bolted and very hard. At the end of May, I ripped off an oppositional vertical gaston that pushed the difficulty way up. My best guess is something in the V10 range for bouldering. The rock is very solid and the climbing well protected and pretty cool. The first three clips come in at 5.11+. Moving past clip three is the crux. Originally it had two vertical tiny gastons that were just sufficient to move up off a left heel hook. Clip 4 is off of a deep, full, hand slot. This is followed by a hard transition move into another hand slot. From there on it comes in at 5.11. For myself, this will be a project as I try to acquire the crimp strength and flexibility to get past clip 3. I'll keep working on the problem but leave it open.

This is in the middle of the alcove sector.

Nine quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 meter rope just gets you down.