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Peak Mountain 3

Pegarlo

FA Chris Deuto (2020), equipped by Richard Wright
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pegarlo, or “Stick It” in Spanish, is a route bolted by Richard Wright up the center of the overhanging panel on the right side of the Dome. It was bolted in 2012, and Richard described it as “5.12 with a brutal hard crux, too hard for me.” It has recently gone and is one of, if not the best, routes in the area.

Start by climbing the 5.7 approach slab (slightly runout trad pitch with medium sizes). Clip the mid-anchors, and climb 11+ to a sloper rail. Execute a viciously hard and short lived crux (V9) to the next clip. Keep it together on the second hard section (V6) which ends at a fishhook jug under a mantel. Continue up through unconventional 5.12 climbing to the anchors above the lip. Perfect rock, amazing moves, and unique sequences on beautiful white rock make this a classic for sure.

Location

Densely bolted line out the middle of the white overhang on the right side of the Mill Creek Dome, it is approached by climbing

MargaSukha

, a 5.7 trad line.

Protection

10 bolts and a few cams (0.5-2). A 60m rope should get you all the way down from the top. Knot the end.