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Peak Mountain 3

Mr. Pitiful

FA Peter Hubbel, Bruce Burnell, Andy Archer, 8/84
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mr. Pitiful is a pretty good, little route that starts in a left-facing dihedral formed by a small pillar. Scramble up, move left and clip a bolt after a roof of sorts. Follow several more bolts straight up on pleasant, slab climbing with good edges, friction, and crystals. The rock is slightly friable in places, so be a bit careful.

The climbing is pretty fun as it seems that there is always a good stance close by.

Make your way up to a tree growing out of a crack. This tree usually has webbing, but it might be old webbing. If you don't like the tree, you can climb about 15' higher to a ledge, and scramble across it to the right. After about 30' you will run into the bolted anchor at the top of '

Geek Crack

' and '

Illusion Chain

'.

Location

Approximately 60% to 70% of the way to the right of the buttress. Snake Buttress is naturally split into 4 parts and this part would be the 3rd to the right. Look for a left-facing dihedral that is formed by a 20' spike of rock leaning against the slab.

Protection

Primarily bolts (bring about 8 or 10 draws), and perhaps a light rack with wires to tight hands. The dihedral at bottom is bigger, but I don't remember as it was pretty easy. You can scope this part easily from the ground.