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Peak Mountain 3

Seven Sharp

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Description

This route starts near a hole in the talus base and below an obvious, right-trending corner that takes a 90 degree turn back to the left at half way to the anchors.

This is an okay warmup, and it protects well. A single, wide piece 5" is optional near where the route jogs back to the left. The crux is the 30 feet section where it starts back left. This protects well with finger-sized cams and a large stopper. Near the top, find a jag in the crack for a nice stance and be a good leader and clip a double-length runner to a tough to see bolt over the lip of the overhang. This isn't really for your safety, but for your second. Then traverse an easy ledge straight left twenty feet to the anchors.

This anchor is in good shape. Two 1/4" bolts and a modern 3/8" are the hardware. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south-facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors I found were mostly single rap rings and I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.

DESCENT: !!!ROPE WARNING!!! Rappel 85 feet to ground. A 60m would reach fine, but tie ends if using a 50m. TOP ROPERS: You CANNOT toprope this climb with a single 50m cord and even a 60m would be close. I had a 70m and it only had 20 feet left when I was lowered due to the directionals I left for my second.

Location

Rappel

diagonally

85 feet to the ground. A single 50m might not make it, and the last bit is a slick slab.

Protection

Single set, fingers to hand sized cams. Light set of stoppers.