- Edit (TBD)
Description
FA of the tower is unknown, but local legend Jerry Kanzler did the direct finish in 1967.
P1:
Climb a right-leaning crack to a left-facing corner. End on an awesome ledge with rap bolts.
5.6, 60'.
P1a:
Do
The Dagger
P2:
Climb a gorgeous left-facing corner with a crack of varying sizes. Follow it through a series of bulges to the exit out right on a large ledge.
5.8, 150'.
(P1&2 can be done as one with a 70m and maybe (unconfirmed) w/ a 60m rope.)
P3:
Grovel up the obvious chimney to easier ground. Scramble to the top.
5.7, 100'.
P3a:
DIRECT FINISH
. Highly recommended. Climb jugs and jams in a crack through the obvious overhanging face, right of the chimney. Hit easier ground and scramble to top.
5.9, 100'.
Location
The route is pretty much dead-center on the Tower. Look for the enormous left-facing corner from the ground. Descend by a single-rope rap off the summit. Scramble down a large ledge to the skier's left and find another bolted rap. 100' to the ground. Skirt the base of the tower back to your packs.
Protection
Take a standard rack w/ singles to a #3 Camalot. Lots of runners for the long second pitch.
Routes in Gallatin Tower
- 13Standard Route5.8+Trad