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Peak Mountain 3

Orange Crack

FA Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '72. FFA Kanzler, Terry Kennedy '77
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Enjoyable full-length route, though the first pitch is fun on its own, too.

P1 - Scramble up to a crack/corner, then up some more face climbing to an offwidth crack with a few faceholds. Climb it, and belay from a two bolt anchor on a spacious ledge beneath a roof. From here, you can walk off the ledge to the right or rappel back to the ground. 5.9, ~100'.

P2 - Angle up and out the roof to the left, using a thin crack (short crux, 5.11). Once past this and on the slab, you can either go up the corners above (fun climbing, well protected 5.8, but dirty) or traverse left on slab (5.7R) into

Standard Route's

final pitches. Natural belay. 5.11, ~120'.

P3 - Choose one of the

Standard Route's

final pitches. End on top at chains. 5.7 or 5.9, ~100'.

Location

Locate the start near the right end of the tower's base. Descend via the rappels described in the Standard Route description.

Protection

Take a 3.5 or 4 camalot for the wide crack on pitch one. Thin gear (TCUs or tiny camalots) protect the second pitch.