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Peak Mountain 3

Blunderbust

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Description

A fun alternative to the standard chimney scramble start to Stiletto that also provides a decent warm-up before jumping on that line. Mostly good rock, good pro, and a hand crack finish. When you top out the climb, you can either build an anchor with a #3-#5 cam and transfer the belay over to Stiletto once your second is up, or tunnel behind the small tower and belay from the Stiletto starting crack (0.3-0.5 cams, draggy). It's also possible to link this climb with Stilleto (and not as scary now with the new retro-bolt at the start of Stilleto), but even with careful runnering you'll still build up some drag and your belayer will have a hard time seeing you until you're about halfway up Stilleto...

Location

To the right of the large slab at the top of the Tombstone approach pitch you'll see a small tower with an incipient crack system that turns into a hand crack near its top--this is it. Build a belay anchor (trick #1 cam, 0.3 cam, stoppers) on the comfy block at the bottom of the crack system.

Protection

Single Green C3-#4 camalot, stoppers; 2x in hand sizes might feel a little safer. #1, 0.3, and stoppers for the belay anchor. Slings.