- Edit (TBD)
Laid to Rest
Description
10 years ago, this route was put up from the ground on aid and an anchor was placed after the end of the crack. The crack was freed, leaving the remaining face climbing above unclimbed. Start by climbing Old School Executioner without getting tired, trying to keep your stoke & fingers alive. Anyone who has been even slightly pumped above the #0 cam trying to clip the anchor of Old School at 100 feet knows it's not a jug you're clipping off of.This is because you're clipping in the middle of the next hard sequence of face climbing into the full route. Without any rest, continue up reachy moves requiring tension, balance, and flexible hips. Still a ways before your next bolt, marginal shakes bring into question diminishing returns as the angle continues to subtly kick back and the intensity increases. Shouldery & techy moves up the pinched down seam guard the final crux.Try and ignore the pump, and prepare for powerful & techy moves on credit cards at around the 120 foot mark. Exit the crux with a glory ride up the arete until you can mantle onto the final 20 feet of Stiletto (2 bolts) for an exposed slab crux finale. You've just pulled onto the slab, escaped the cold shaded north face, into the warmth of the sun with the glowing valley falling away behind you. Hard not to wear a grin here, now don't blow it on a slab climber's cherry on top finish to a route that tests your crack climbing, crimp strength, granite stamina, & slab faith. Wild chicken heads on summit, with a stellar view atop an inspiring hunk of rock.
Location
North face of the Tombstonefull line up the right crack to the top of the wall
Protection
#0 - #3, nuts, 5 bolts.80 meter rope with stretch will get you into the starting chimney, easy to downclimb last bitor just rap twice with Old School's anchors.