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Peak Mountain 3

Discipline Crack

FA Pat Callis 1960
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Step up to the ledge and jam the smallest, slightly overhanging crack in the back corner until it widens at the top. Your feet can stem out past the crack on the left (known as Dirty Crack or the New Chimney Jam crack) as required.A bit of history about this route, Pat Callis lead this crack in the 1960's by stemming over to the left of Dirty Crack to keep the grade at about 11c. Pat named that route Discipline Crack.

Alan Watts and Tom Rogers top roped this same crack but kept their feet to the right of Dirty Crack to up the difficulty to 12c. They called that variation Discipline Jam Direct and kept it as a top rope problem due to the dangerous nature of the route and the difficulty in protecting the line, given the available gear of that era. In December of 2008, Pedro Hoffmeister stepped up to the task of taking on the first known successful lead and renamed the route Rat Snake Head, 5.12c R.

Location

Tucked into the New Chimney area to the right of Dirty Crack.

This route is #15 on the Skinner Butte sign board but is mislabeled as "Unnamed 5.11+"

Protection

Small to medium cams, one large cam at the top, plus small offsets for the lower-middle. Bolt anchors and chains for the top-rope.