Wheat Without The Thins

Using the anchors at the top of the New Chimney, or the single bolt and a sling above the actual route, top-rope or rope-solo the clean face and arete between "Thin Crack" and "The New Chimney Jam." To climb this Columns-style variation, both cracks are off (no jamming or grabbing the crack edges). Simply stick to the face and arete for a 5.11 challenge.In funny, Columns-contrived style, you can lead this face/arete by placing gear in the crack to the right, the crack you are avoiding. This crack is thin and shallow, thus the PG-13 rating if the route is led. Don't fall and pop a piece while laybacking.

This route is a face variation on the face and arete just left of the New Chimney, between "Thin Crack" and "The New Chimney Jam."

TR, Rope-Solo, or Trad gear in "New Chimney Jam" crack (anchors at the top)