Bird's Nest Overhang

Long ignored route on the far right side of the lower Castle. Intimidating roof with ancient sling turns out to have nice holds for traversing left around roof. I cleaned the great crack above this that leads up to Loggers ledge.

Fred graded this 5.3, A1 for the roof in 1957

FFA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Langdon, 1968

take any of the lower wall first pitch variations to ledges with maple trees. There are 2 separate bolted anchors on the right end of ledges before big gully above Amy Carter.

Go up to a notch where you drop down right and follow cracks right ( the Fault route) under the roof that has Idiots Delight to your left. You will see the Bird's nest roof as you go.A big triangular roof with a thin crack in the corner below it.

standard rack to 3". no fixed anchors. You could belay off maples at the top out, but it is cleaner to traverse out right onto face after the crack, many good horizontal crack options just before Loggers ledge near the base of Canary, or belay off pine tree in front of Canary.