Monkey Lip

This route starts near Brass Balls and then moves left through an overhanging section. (5.11) Thirty years ago this section was protected by several fixed pins. The low angle slab above the initial overhang is climbed to an obvious roof crack. (5.11-) The roof is more difficult that it first appears. Above the roof wander up scruffy rock to a belay ledge. Since the meat of the route is the initial overhang most escape off to the left via Clem’s Layback. The long section of mediocre climbing above the crux sections of this route and Apesville have probably limited their popularity despite the comparatively great climbing through the initial overhang.

Start near the base of Brass Balls

Standard rack