- Edit (TBD)
Description
From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!
Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.
Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.
Protection
Small gear to a #1 camalot and a couple of small wires (#2 RP works nicely). Two-bolt anchor on top.
Routes in Ice Cream Parlor
- 24Crack 15.8Trad