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Peak Mountain 3

Center of the Earth

FA Russ Johnson & Glen Cambron; 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A semi-rotten hand crack with ample face-holds transitions to a finger/tips crack. The rock quality improves dramatically about half way up before an awesome lieback sequence (crux). Rock quality suddenly deteriorates before topping out, so climb delicately and watch out for some death blocks a little bigger than an end table. They can be avoided, but be really careful.

Don't pass up any opportunities for good gear down low on this route. There are solid placements there, but take extra care to ensure you find them! You're probably not going to fall because of the difficulty of the moves, but a fall due to a hold exploding is very realistic.

Don't let this detract you from the climb- it's not amazing, but def worth doing for the lieback sequence up top.

GEAR BELAY: the gear belay is on the climbers left about 2' below the mesa top. Bring a #4 and a 0.5 for sure; I also plugged an offset 0.5/0.75 BD cam adjacent/right of the 0.5 in the same slot. See pic- it's really your only option, otherwise I wouldn't spray so much gear beta.

Location

The crack climb two cracks right of Jagged Edge. It's the next crack past the obvious offwidth.

Protection

Singles #0.2, #0.3, #1, #3, #4 for gear anchor

Doubles: #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #2*.

If you own an offset #0.5/0.75 (purple/green), bring it for the anchor.

Triples of #2 might be nice if you want to sew it up like I did because of the rock quality. I had to get more creative without a third, but it was fine.