The Beautiful Serpent Lied to Me

This route follows a beautiful and curvy crack to the top of the Jagged Edge column. The route begins with an interesting set of face moves to get over a bulge that’s in your face from the start. Once you’re able to get into the crack, you’ll find that it’s width varies as it curves back and forth up the column. This makes for some interesting mini-cruxes that will eventually lead you to wider climbing with a fun top out move.

There is a lot of loose rock on this route that tempts you as face holds offering an alternative to the sting of the offwidth, but it’s best to stay in the crack not just from a purist perspective, but also for safety. Using the face throughout the climb will result in a 5.7 rating, while you will get a 5.9 from staying in the crack.

Right now, the best way to anchor is to redirect the rope through a BD #3 in the corner crack above and to the back of the column and then run through the chains at the top of The Jagged Edge 5.7.

Ultimately, chains need to be installed on the left wall directly over the route for a less complicated rope situation.

The obvious wide crack on the left side of the column on which The Jagged Edge 5.7 is found.

Gear from 3-12”. Use BD #3-8 cams or equivalent. Big bros dont work well in this crack given it’s constant change in width.